Category: Plumber

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When it’s cold outside (even in LA), you need the right furnace to heat your home evenly and efficiently. A furnace can only do its job properly if it’s the right size for the space it’s heating. Too big and it will switch on and off frequently, too small and it will run constantly. Neither is ideal.

A small furnace will lead to high energy bills, uneven heating, and a shorter lifespan. Not to mention the fact that you’ll probably still be cold. A furnace that’s too big, on the other hand, might make parts of your home uncomfortably hot while leaving other areas unproperly heated. This constant cycling in short bursts could wear it out quickly. To avoid these problems, learn how to choose the right sized furnace for your home.

How do I determine the right size furnace for my home?

Gas furnaces are differentiated by their BTU capabilities. BTU stands for British Thermal Units. One BTU represents the amount of energy required to heat one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. To determine the proper BTU you’ll need for your home’s heating, you’ll have to do a little math.

First, find out the square footage of your home.

You should be able to find this number on the paperwork you received when you purchased your home. If you can’t find that, you can calculate the square footage yourself.

Start by measuring the length and width of each room in your home. Multiply the length and width of each room together to get the square footage of that room. Then simply add together the square footage of all your rooms.

Don’t include rooms that don’t have ductwork or rooms you don’t plan on heating, like garages or sunrooms. Most furnace size charts operate under the assumption that your ceilings are eight feet high. If your ceilings are higher or lower, make changes to your calculation accordingly.

Determine which climate zone you live in.

The United States is divided into different climate zones, each with its own BTU per square foot recommendation. To heat a home in Minnesota takes more BTUs than a home in Florida. Living in California, your furnace won’t have to be heavy duty.

If you’re working with Mike Diamond, then your home lies in Zone 2 – a hot-dry or mixed-dry climate zone. In Zone 2, you need 35-40 BTUs for each square foot of your home.

Calculate the furnace size you’ll need.

To determine the number of BTUs you need to heat your home: multiply your square footage by the zone heating factor. If your home is well insulated, use the lower number. If your home is not well insulated or has other factors that may make it harder to heat, use the higher number.

For example: in a well-insulated L.A. home that is 2,000 square feet our equation is:

2,000(sq ft) X 35 (zone factor) = 70,000 BTUs

For this home, we need to install a furnace with a rating of 70,000 BTUs. But we have one more step to finding our perfect furnace.

Calculate your new furnace’s actual output.

When you shop for your new furnace, you’ll notice two numbers on it. The first is the amount of heat it will produce in BTUs. The second number is its efficiency rating. To calculate the actual BTU output of any furnace, multiply the two numbers. For example, a furnace capable of 100,000 BTUs at an efficiency rating of 80% will actually produce 80,000 BTUs of heat:

100,000 X 80% = 80,000

Make sure you calculate this properly before installing a furnace that is too small for your space.

Reference a furnace size chart.

You can also compare your home’s square footage to a furnace size chart. There are a number of different furnace size charts out there. These charts give comparisons between home square footage and the BTUs needed to heat it. It’s not as accurate as calculating it yourself. Most charts follow guidelines similar to these:

A 1,200-square-foot home will require between 35,000 and 75,000 BTUs A 1,500-square-foot home will require between 45,000 to 90,000 BTUs A 1,800-square-foot home will require between 55,000 to 110,000 BTUs A 2,100-square-foot home will require between 65,000 to 125,000 BTUs A 2,400-square-foot home will require between 75,000 to 145,000 BTUs

Expert Furnace Service and Installation in Los Angeles

If you’re interested in updating or upgrading your home’s furnace, give Mike Diamond a call. Our expert technicians can answer your questions about the make, model, and size of the perfect furnace for your home. We’ll be able to get your just right furnace installed quickly and efficiently.

The post How Do I Determine The Right Size Furnace For My Home? appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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As the old saying goes – there’s more than one way to unclog a toilet. OK, we just made that up but we’re here to prove it’s true. Sure, we love our plunger, but what if you don’t have one? Have you tried soap or baking soda?

Follow our detailed instructions for how to unclog a toilet with a plunger but stick around for plunger-less toilet clog hacks too. One way or another, we’ll get your toilet unclogged and return things to business as usual.

How to Plunge a Toilet

The best way to unclog a toilet is to learn to use a flange plunger properly. Flange plungers are made specifically for plunging toilets. The “flange” is an extended, sleeve-like rubber flap built into the underside of the plunger’s rubber cup. Insert this flange directly into the toilet bowl’s drain hole to ensure a tighter seal than a conventional cup plunger.

1. Prepare the area around the toilet

Plunging can get messy. Put on rubber gloves and lay out towels or plastic wrap to catch spills.

2. Level out the amount of water in the bowl

To maximize plunging effectiveness, you’ll want to fill the toilet bowl about halfway full with water (enough so that you can fully submerge the plunger cup).

3. Place the flange into the toilet drain

Maneuver the flange until it fits snugly into the top of the toilet bowl’s drain. Insert the flange at an angle so the flap fills with water as you lower it.

4. Fit the cup over the drain

Fit the cup of the plunger snugly over the drain while keeping the flange inserted. As you create the seal, let water from the bowl under the cup. The water between the cup and the drain will help generate suction pressure to unclog.

5Position and “test” your plunger seal

When you’ve created a seal with both the flange and cup, “test” it before getting started. Depress the plunger straight down and then tug it back up the way you would to unclog normally, but do so slowly. Make sure the seal stays in place throughout the process.

5a. (Optional) Apply petroleum jelly around the cup of the plunger

If you’re having trouble maintaining a seal, try applying petroleum jelly to the cup. Petroleum jelly will help keep the cup from sliding off of the bottom of the bowl.

6. Plunge forcefully 5 to 6 times

Push down on the plunger forcefully to drive the cup down and drive the flange into the drain, then pull the cup back up to “reset.” Repeat this motion repeatedly and steadily, but not too forcefully or rapidly, for 20 seconds.

7. Check water level in toilet bowl

After plunging for thirty seconds, quickly break the seal and remove the plunger. Listen for a gurgling sound from the drain (a good sign) and check the water level in the toilet bowl. If nearly all the water drained from the bowl, then you’ve probably cleared the clog.

7a. (Optional) Repeat plunging as necessary

If the water in the toilet bowl didn’t drain, repeat the plunging process a few more times. Add or bail water as necessary until your bowl is half full before you start again.

8. Test to see if the clog is gone

Before you test your flush, remove the tank lid. Depress the handle as usual and watch the toilet bowl closely. If you haven’t cleared the clog, then the toilet won’t flush, and the bowl will start filling with water. Prevent an overflow by manually closing the toilet’s flapper.

We recommend you only re-try your plunging up to five times. Plunging for too long could damage your toilet, and some clogs are too stubborn for even the most effective plumbing.

How to Unclog a Toilet Without a Plunger

Worst case scenario: you only have one toilet in your home, it’s clogged, you’re without a plunger and you have a dinner party starting in two hours. Stay cool. We’ve got a few more of Mike’s diamonds to get that toilet flushing again.

How to Unclog a Toilet with Dish Soap

Dish soap has natural properties that break down grease and grime in solids. It can also serve as a lubricant to get things moving.

Simply squirt a generous cup or so of your favorite soap into your toilet’s drain. Follow the soap up with a bucket of hot (not boiling) water. Water that is too hot may crack the porcelain. Wait 30 minutes and check. Repeat if necessary.

How to Unclog a Toilet with Baking Soda

Sprinkle a cup of baking soda around your toilet’s drain. Slowly add two cups of white vinegar. Allow the chemical reaction an hour to reach the clog and work its magic. You could follow up with a bucket of hot water as mentioned above. Repeat the process if necessary.

How to Unclog a Toilet with Poop in It

Yep, we said it, but that’s the way it goes. Sometimes after your uncle has spent the better part of the morning in your bathroom, you have a very unpleasant clog.

The secret here is Coca Cola. Not for your uncle, for your toilet. Turns out, coke has some awesome acids that double as unclogging agents. The carbonation also helps by putting pressure on the clog.

Pour a can or half liter bottle of coke into your toilet and then quickly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. This will help keep the pressure in. After the hour, enough dissolving should have taken place to allow a normal flush.

Unclogging LA’s Toilets the Right Way

If you’re dealing with a stubborn clog that won’t budge, then call Mike Diamond. Our expert plumbers have yet to meet a clog they couldn’t clear. 

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Stuck in that awkward plumbing limbo where your toilet won’t flush? Fear not. We’re here to explain the most common reasons your toilet may not be flushing and how you can fix them. If you live in L.A., your local plumbers at Mike Diamond are always ready to help.

Your toilet may be clogged (even if you can’t see it) or it may not be getting enough water.  Any number of working parts could be faulty too. Before the next person in your home needs to go, let’s, ahem, plunge in and help you fix that toilet that won’t flush.

Your Toilet is Clogged.

An obvious reason why your toilet won’t flush, but a necessary one to consider is that it’s clogged. Never flush anything other than toilet paper and waste down your toilet. Wipes and other items can build up and block your sewer line. Clogs may not be visible if they’re further down the line.

A partial clog somewhere in the line could mean that your toilet will still flush but not very strong. A way to test for a partial clog is to pour a bucket with a gallon of cold water into the bowl. If your toilet still doesn’t flush properly, you probably have a partial clog.

What to do: Use a plunger or toilet auger to loosen things. Make sure you use a flange plunger, since the cup will help you create a better seal in the toilet bowl. Another way to loosen things is to turn off the toilet’s water, flush it, and then add hot (not boiling) water to the bowl. Let the water sit for several minutes, then flush it. If that doesn’t work, either, you should consider snaking the toilet.  If your toilet still won’t flush after trying any of the above methods, you may want to consider professional drain cleaning services.

Check Your Toilet’s Handle and Chain

If the handle doesn’t do anything when you flush, you may have an easy fix. The handle connects to the flapper (the valve that holds the water in the tank) via a small length of chain. A simple explanation may be that the chain got disconnected at either end.

It’s also possible that the chain is the wrong length. When you depress the handle, the chain yanks up the flapper to initiate the toilet’s flush. If the toilet chain is too long, it won’t be able to yank up the flapper. If the flapper doesn’t rise, the toilet doesn’t flush. If the chain’s too short, then then your toilet flapper won’t seal properly and your toilet will run without ever completely filling with water.

What to do: Lift off the lid of your toilet tank. Check that both ends of the chain are connected. If they aren’t clip them back into place. If they are, pull the handle to test that the chain is the right length to lift the flapper fully open and also allow it to close tightly.

Why Won’t the Flapper in the Toilet Close?

As mentioned above, the flapper is the rubber valve at the bottom of your toilet’s tank. A toilet’s flapper opens and closes whenever you flush, allowing water to run from the tank into the bowl. When you depress your toilet’s handle, you’re lifting the flapper. Your toilet’s flapper is in constant contact with moving water that, over time, can bend or otherwise warp the flapper.

What to do: Examine your flapper. Does it seal tightly when it’s closed? Can you see wear or damage? Flappers are inexpensive and available at any local hardware store. Turn off the water at the supply valve, drain your toilet tank and replace the flapper. Make sure you reattach the chain. If you need help, we’re standing by.

djust or Replace Your Overflow Tube

Your toilet’s overflow tube is a part of the tank near the refill tube. Overflow tubes help empty water directly into the toilet bowl during a flush. These tubes are not infallible, unfortunately. The toilet’s constant pressure can easily crack or otherwise damage them. If the tube does crack, water will run into it instead of past it.

What to do: Replace the overflow tube to restore its ability to work. If your overflow tube isn’t working, give us a call and we’ll diagnose the problem and install the proper part.

Your Toilet Tank isn’t Filling Up All the Way

When you flush your toilet, you release water from the tank into the bowl. Releasing a lot of water into the bowl quickly generates the suction required to flush the toilet. When the tank doesn’t contain enough water, it doesn’t create the necessary pressure for a strong flush. You may notice a weaker flush, or no flush at all.

What to do: Open the tank of your toilet to locate the float and the fill line. Flush the toilet with the tank open and watch the water drain into the bowl and fill back up. If the tube stops adding water before the float reaches the fill line, then your toilet won’t be able to perform a full flush. Adjust the float by moving its position on the arm that connects it to the refill tube. Flush again and see if you’ve solved the problem.

Clean Your Toilet Jets

The toilet jets are the little holes along the underside of the toilet bowl rim. When you flush, the water from the tank above rushes down through these small openings to create the swirling action you see. If they become clogged with lime or corrosion, it will limit the strength of your flush.

What to do: Get a small nail, length of wire or toothbrush and clean the jets. Use watered down bleach or a solution of vinegar. Place a small mirror on the underside of the rim to see which jets are clogged and dig out any blockage to restore them.

Fix Your Toilet that Won’t Flush

Hopefully, you’ve diagnosed the reason why your toilet won’t flush, and everything is moving again. If it’s still not working and you want Los Angeles’ best plumbers to have a look, call or contact Mike Diamond. We’re the plumbing experts who’ll turn your frustrations into flush elations.

The post How to Fix a Toilet That Won’t Flush appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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Garbage disposals usually leak from three places: the top, the pipe connections, and the bottom. To find out if your disposal is leaking, check each common place where leaks start. Use a flashlight to check for condensation, puddling, and other signs of water accumulation on or beneath your disposal.

Each common garbage disposal leak happens for a different reason. Usually, a minor component is simply too loose or it’s worn out. By finding where your garbage disposal is leaking, you’ll be able figure out why it’s leaking and how you can fix it. Here’s everything you need to know to fix your garbage disposal’s leak quickly and accurately.

Where is my garbage disposal leaking from?

Garbage disposals commonly leak from four different places:

The sink flange at the top of the garbage disposal. This connects the disposal to the top of the sink.The dishwasher hose connection on the side of the disposal. This is where the flexible plastic dishwasher hose connects to the disposal.The drain line connection, also located on the side of the disposal. This is where the main drain pipe connects to the disposal via curving metal or PVC plastic pipes.The reset button on the bottom of the disposal. This button deactivates the disposal if it jams or the motor overloads.

How can I tell if my garbage disposal is leaking?

First, look for the obvious signs. Check under your kitchen sink for puddling water, dampness, dripping, or a musty smell. If you see any signs of leaking, check to make sure it isn’t the sink itself or the sink’s p-trap. Then, grab a flashlight and bucket to look for each common garbage disposal leak.

Turn off the garbage disposal and unplug it completely. Then, fill up the sink with water about halfway. If you have food coloring, add it to the water to make the leak easier to spot. You can locate the leak in the following ways:

The sink flange: Check for dripping or water accumulation around the top and bottom of the ring of the flange. Use the flashlight to look for water coloring and feel for wetness by hand.The dishwasher hose connection: To properly look for this leak, you’ll have to run your dishwasher. Start the dishwasher without turning back on the disposal. Watch the hose as water runs from the dishwasher drain through it into the disposal. Pay particular attention to the connections between the hose and disposal.The drain line connection: Check the connection between the drain line and disposal. Pay particular attention to the screws that fasten the line to the disposal and to the gap between the disposal and drain line.The reset button: The reset button is in the center of the bottom of the disposal unit. Shine the flashlight under the disposal to look for it. Check for a slow, constant dripping or water accumulation beneath the unit.

Why is my garbage disposal leaking?

Each of the four common leaks outlined so far have different causes and fixes. Here’s where your leak is coming from and what caused it:

The sink flange: The sink flange is held in place by plumber’s putty and bolts. If the putty deteriorates or the bolts rust or loosen, the watertight seal between the flange and sink may break, leading to your leak.The dishwasher hose connection: If the dishwasher hose is leaking, it’s usually because the screws holding it to the disposal have loosened. This can happen because of rust or simply as a result of time and jostling. It’s also possible the drain hose or clamp are leaking.The drain line connection: If the drain line is leaking, then either the screws securing to the disposal have worn out, or the rubber gasket inside the mounting assembly itself is leaking. Remove the screws, take down the drain line, and check the gasket inside for signs of wear and tear.The reset button: If your garbage disposal is leaking from either the reset button or any other part of the bottom of the disposal, then it probably means a seal inside the unit itself has worn out. This can happen when a garbage disposal gets old.

How to Fix a Leaking Garbage Disposal

Now that you’ve identified the where and why, you’re prepared to fix the actual problem. Luckily, fixing a leaking garbage disposal is usually pretty straightforward–even if the fix isn’t always what you’d like to hear:

The sink flange: Unscrew the bolts and check for rust or other deterioration, and replace them if you find any. Then, remove the flange, scrap off the putty holding it in place, and reapply fresh putty. Turn back on the water to test the seal.The dishwasher hose connection: First, try using a screwdriver to tighten the screws on the metal clamp connecting the hose to the disposal. If the screws don’t seem to tighten properly, consider replacing them. It’s also possible the hose itself is leaking, in which case you’ll have to replace it.The drain line connection: You may be able to fix this leak by tightening the connection between the pipe and disposal. Try un-attaching and reattaching the pipe if tightening doesn’t work. If you’re still having issues, try replacing the screws or gasket. You could also use a pipe clamp and tighten with a screwdriver.The reset button: Unfortunately, if your garbage disposal leaks from the bottom, then it’s probably simply time to remove the garbage disposal and replace it. If one internal seal is worn out, after all, then the rest are probably getting there too.

 

By following the directions above, you should be able to identify and fix just about any garbage disposal leak you’re dealing with. Of course, “should be able to” doesn’t necessarily mean will be able to. Sometimes unusual leaks happen. These leaks can be tough to figure out, much less fix!

Whether you have a weird leak you can’t get a handle on, or you just need to ask some questions, feel free to call Mike Diamond any time. We’ve got everything we need to handle any garbage disposal problem you can throw at us.

The post Is My Garbage Disposal Leaking? appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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You just woke up and you’re about to brush your teeth. You stick your brush under the tap, turn the water on, and… a stream of brown, cloudy mush drizzles out.  Rust colored water isn’t normally harmful but it can be disturbing.  The causes can range from corroded pipes to mineral build up to utility company operations.

Seeing your home’s tap water turn rusty is a traumatizing experience, especially if you don’t know why it’s happening. That’s why we put together this primer to explain why your water is rusty looking. If the reason for your home water discoloration is rusty pipes, we’ll explain what you can do about it. We want all Los Angeles residents to have clean, safe drinking water in their homes.

What Makes Water Brown?

Tap water looks rusty brown, yellowish, or reddish when it contains an excess of sediment or minerals.

The most common discoloring minerals present in water are iron and manganese. Tiny metallic deposits of these minerals can get into the water stream via several different sources – natural or manmade. These minerals can also be responsible for any unpleasant tastes or smells your water might have.

Is Rusty Water Dangerous?

It depends on the particular minerals in your water, but probably not. The EPA regulates the treatment of drinking water contaminants according to primary and secondary standards. Dangerous contaminants like lead and arsenic are covered by the primary regulations. If these contaminants exceed a maximum contaminant level in a water supply, it (usually) isn’t supplied to the public.

The secondary EPA regulations cover contaminants like iron and manganese. These contaminants aren’t dangerous to health but taste, smell, or look bad and could stain clothing or cause skin rashes. Public water systems are compelled to test for primary contaminants on a regular basis but testing for secondary contaminants is unfortunately voluntary. Rusty water might be gross and inconvenient, but it’s not actually dangerous to drink or bathe in.

Why Is My Water Brown?

Any of the following symptoms could cause brown water from the faucets in your home. Diagnose your water problem using these three common scenarios:

If all your hot and cold water suddenly goes brown:

It may be the result of a nearby break in a city-operated water main or fire hydrant. Much of America’s plumbing infrastructure is outdated, so water main breaks that release sediment into the water supply happen frequently.

It’s also possible that either your water heater or your water supply pipes have become rusty or corroded, and you’re just now starting to see the effects.

If only your hot water is discolored:

Sediment or rust may have built up in your water heater’s tank.

If you get brown water from your cold tap and only certain faucets:

The problem is probably with a particular water supply pipe.

How To Fix Reddish Brown Water

Now that you have an idea of what caused your rusty water discoloration in the first place, you know where to start:

If all your hot and cold water suddenly goes brown:

Call your water supply company. Chances are, something happened to a water main or a nearby fire hydrant. It’s also possible that the city is conducting maintenance on the pipe system, and they inadvertently stirred up some sediment. They should be able to tell you when your water will clear up again and what they’re doing to fix the problem.

Once the utility work is done, run your taps for a few minutes until you no longer see orange water coming out of your faucets. Brown water in toilets should disappear after a couple of flushes refresh the water supply.

If all your hot water is discolored:

Try draining and flushing your water heater’s tank. Rusty hot water is often the result of sediment that’s built up over time. It’s a good idea to drain and flush your tank twice a year. Sediment buildup isn’t just bad for your water; it’s one of the most common causes of water heater leaks.

If you flush the tank or have a newer water heater and your hot water is still off-colored, you may have a more significant problem. Call a professional plumber to diagnose the issue. Too much sediment buildup could permanently damage your water heater, or (in rare and extreme circumstances) cause it to explode!

If your cold water is only discolored when it comes out of a few faucets:

Start by running those faucets at full pressure for about several minutes or until the water clears completely. Sometimes, a small amount of rust may dislodge from the inner walls of a pipe and enter the water supply. If the problem is that minor, simply running the water should clean out the rust and clear the water again.

If your water still looks rusty after running it, however, or if the problem returns shortly after you flush the rust, it may be because your pipes have corroded. When too much corrosion or rust builds up on the pipe walls of your home’s water supply pipes, then minerals will leach into your water constantly, and you will continue to have brown water from your cold tap.

If you have a corroded or rusted pipe, you should have it deep cleaned or replaced ASAP, before it causes even more serious problems.  Corroded pipes can lead to clogs and possible leaks or breaks in your water line.

Get Rid of Brown Rusty Water in Your Home

If you’ve tried everything and remain frustrated by rusty water coming from your tap, remember that Mike Diamond has your back. Give us a call, and we’ll diagnose why your faucets are spewing out that ugly brown stuff and make sure your pipes are transporting clean, clear water to you and your family.

Nobody in Los Angeles should have to shower in–much less drink!–rusty water. We’ll make sure you never have to.

The post What to Do if Your Tap Has Rusty Water appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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